17th century
Stole with a half-figure of Christ, his arms raised in blessing at back of neck cut out; twelve figures in arches, 6 each side from top to bottom, left to right: Gabriel, the Virgin, St. Peter, St. Paul, St. Matthew, St. John(?), St. Mark, St. James, St. Simeon, St. Andrew, St. Luke, St. Bartholomew, St. Philip, St. Thomas, each flanked by flower sprigs and outlined with seed pearls. Applied woven border and decorative use of sequins throughout. Embroidery stitches include French knots, split, couching, padded raised work ("guipure"), satin. Red silk satin background
142 x 29 cm (55 7/8 x 11 7/16 in.)
Harry G. Friedman, New York, Gift to Fogg Museum, 1960.
Silk, metallic yarns (filé. lamé and frisé) and sequins
18th-19th centuryItalianSilk brocade: medium green silk ground of dyed yarns in tabby weave (possibly in lampas weave), the ground interwoven in brocade with strips of double-layered paper faced with gold leaf (possibly on a ground of red bole)
13th-14th centuryChineseKnit fabric
21st centuryBritish, WelshSilk
15th-16th centuryHispano-Moorishwool, twill tapestry weave, double-interlocked
ChineseLeather
19th centuryJute and cellophane, plain weave
20th centuryGermanLinen
ItalianTapestry, linen and wool
EgyptianWarps: 2 Z spun S plied undyed ivory wool on 2 distinct levels. Wefts: 1 Z spun wool in red, white and ornage; 2 yarns per shoot; pronounced lazy lines. Pile: 2 Z spun S plied woo. Pile colors: dark red (abrashed), pale orange, pale red (shifting from orange-ish to purplish), yellow-beige, very pale green, light grey, blue grey, dark blue, white undyed wool, dark black-brown, and white cotton which has turned a sort of ecru color. Knots: symmetrical. Woven upside down. 70 knots per vertical decimeter. 45 knots per horizontal decimeter. Both selvedges: replaced. Top end: 1 cm. green and red tapestry weave, stripped. Bottom end: 1 1/2 cm. green tapestry weave in 1/2 cm green and red stripes, stripped. Woven upside down.
19th centuryTurkish