17th century
Stole with a half-figure of Christ, his arms raised in blessing at back of neck cut out; twelve figures in arches, 6 each side from top to bottom, left to right: Gabriel, the Virgin, St. Peter, St. Paul, St. Matthew, St. John(?), St. Mark, St. James, St. Simeon, St. Andrew, St. Luke, St. Bartholomew, St. Philip, St. Thomas, each flanked by flower sprigs and outlined with seed pearls. Applied woven border and decorative use of sequins throughout. Embroidery stitches include French knots, split, couching, padded raised work ("guipure"), satin. Red silk satin background
142 x 29 cm (55 7/8 x 11 7/16 in.)
Harry G. Friedman, New York, Gift to Fogg Museum, 1960.
Warp: 2 S ply Z spun white and brown wool warps on one level. Wefts: 1 Z spun yarn, 2 shoots. Pile: 2 S ply Z spun wool. Pile colors: dark red, light red, aubergine, freckled orange (possibly aniline), dark indigo blue, light freckled indigo, yellow-green, green, yellow, aniline ornge, indigo sulfonic, brown and white. Knots: symmetrical. Knots in center area are off-set. 41 knots per vertical decimeter; 25 knots per horizontal centimeter. Both selvedges: bundles of 2 or 3 warps wrapped in red weft material. Top end (listed from edge of pile): band of single line red and blue soumak; band of white and brown 2 ply pile yarn over pairs of warps; 2.5 cm. cicim float brocading using pile yarn on top of a 2 ply red structural weft; single line of soumak; another cm. of same white and brown 2 ply pile yarn, which is then bound over; approximately 7 cm. red pile yarn over pairs of warps. Bottom end: 1 cm. white and brown 2 ply pile yarn; 2 lines of red and blue soumak; 3 cm. slit tapestry weave for ties (to close bag), brown and white soumak; 1/2 cm. tapestry weave; right to left transverse warp braids. Pile is of somewhat remarkably long wool. Ties (to close the bag) are extant: braids in blue, red and brown.
19th-20th centuryKurdishInk on silk
20th centuryAustrianWool and silk
19th centuryFrenchSilk
Japanese
Textile fibers
20th centuryGermanWool and linen, tapestry woven
4th-5th century CEByzantineWool and linen, tapestry weave
EgyptianLinen, tapestry woven
ByzantineSilk
Chinese