17th century
Salmon-coloured cape with ruffle edged in metallic (gilt) fringe. Body of cape covered with lavish polychromed embroidery in floral and leaf patterns in silk chenille with silver and gilt filé yarns, incorporating satin stitch, trellis work held by cross-stitiching, couching, and French knots. Yellow silk ribbon ties. Blue silk plain weave lining.
25.4 × 63.5 cm (10 × 25 in.)
Nettie G. Naumburg, New York, bequest; to Fogg Art Museum, 1930
Warps: 3 Z spun S plied undyed white wool, some slightly darker; alternate warps slightly depressed. Weft: 1 ply Z spun undyed buff, or dyed red (Qashqai); 2 or 3 yarns per shoot. Pile: 2 S plied Z spun wool. Pile colors: dark indigo blue, blue green, medium blue, yellow, yellow green, white, dark brown/black. Knots: asymmetrical, open to the left. Knots per vertical decimeter: 49. Knots per horizontal decimeter: 48. Both selvedges: rewrapped. Top end: approz 1 cm. blue and white double cloth float weaved followed by double line countered soumak in red and white. Bottom end: stripped.
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