Fragment of Brocade on Single Compound

Lavender silk twill ground with brocaded decoration

Polychromed silk and metallic yarns (silver lamé and gilt frisé)

Warps: undyed white wool. Wefts: variable, including outlining wefts, eccentric wefts. Weft colors: light red, dark red, red-brown, purple (made of red and blue), light blue (abrashed), green, dark olive green, dark blue. Whites are wool and cotton combined. The rest are wool.

Fiber

Warp: 2 S ply Z spun white and brown wool warps on one level. Wefts: 1 Z spun yarn, 2 shoots. Pile: 2 S ply Z spun wool. Pile colors: dark red, light red, aubergine, freckled orange (possibly aniline), dark indigo blue, light freckled indigo, yellow-green, green, yellow, aniline ornge, indigo sulfonic, brown and white. Knots: symmetrical. Knots in center area are off-set. 41 knots per vertical decimeter; 25 knots per horizontal centimeter. Both selvedges: bundles of 2 or 3 warps wrapped in red weft material. Top end (listed from edge of pile): band of single line red and blue soumak; band of white and brown 2 ply pile yarn over pairs of warps; 2.5 cm. cicim float brocading using pile yarn on top of a 2 ply red structural weft; single line of soumak; another cm. of same white and brown 2 ply pile yarn, which is then bound over; approximately 7 cm. red pile yarn over pairs of warps. Bottom end: 1 cm. white and brown 2 ply pile yarn; 2 lines of red and blue soumak; 3 cm. slit tapestry weave for ties (to close bag), brown and white soumak; 1/2 cm. tapestry weave; right to left transverse warp braids. Pile is of somewhat remarkably long wool. Ties (to close the bag) are extant: braids in blue, red and brown.

Fiber

Warps: undyed white cotton, 2 Z spun S plied. 34 warps per decimeter. Wefts: wool, Z spun; varied pairs and singles per shot. Extremely eccentric wefts, supplementary wefts for broceaded ornaments. Weft color: blue (heavily abrashed), red (heavily abrashed), green (probably indigo sulfonic, heavily abrashed), yellow, undyed white, light purply brown, corrosive brown, genuine purple/aubergine. Both selvedges: return wefting. Top and bottom: between 8 and 11 warps in a knotted fringe.

Silk velvet brocade with metallic wrapped thread

Fiber

Red silk satin, green silk damask, and white silk tabby-weave fabric

Textile fibers