Late 4th-early 5th century
This fragment’s size and double band design suggests that it originally ornamented the sleeve cuff of a tunic. The bands are figured as inhabited grape vine scrolls; each roundel of the vine scrolls holds a pair of running animals, including rabbits, goats, gazelles, and felines. The rightmost pairs face opposite to the rest, interrupting the flow of movement from left to right and introducing a chaotic energy to the composition. Red yarn details emphasize the animals’ panting tongues. The bands are tapestry woven, however the fabric between, above, and below the bands is plain/tabby woven. Supplementary weft wrapping in a light colored thread creates details on the roundels, animals, and grape leaves.
sight: 19.7 × 30.2 cm (7 3/4 × 11 7/8 in.)
From the collection of Lilian and Benjamin Hertzberg.
Silk
18th centuryBritishTextile fibers
20th centuryAmericanRamie with vegetable dyes and mineral pigments; stenciled and free-hand paste-resist decoration applied on both sides of fabric
18th-19th centuryJapaneseSilk damask
19th centuryKoreanStitched fabric; cut pieces of vegetable-dyed silk damask and tabby-weave silk in various colors, sewn together to form a square fabric
19th-20th centuryKoreanTextile fibers
20th centuryCroatianWoven with knotted wool pile
20th centuryPersianJute and cellophane, broken twill weave
20th centuryGermanWarps: 2 S plied Z spun undyed ivory wool; alternate warps slightly depressed; pronounced lazy lines. Weft: 1 Z spun strand in light red and brown; 2 yarns per shoot, with alternating green and brown yarns, some single yarn shots. Pile: 2 S plied Z spun wool; cotton. Pile colors (wool): light green, light blue, white wool, purply-red, maroon red, brick red, pink, medium blue, dark blue, olive green, pale ecru (possibly faded from?) yellow. White pile is cotton. Knots per vertical decimeter: 49. Knots per horizontal decimeter: 37/38. Woven upside down.
19th centuryTurkishWool warp, weft and pile
19th-20th centuryTurkish