Late 4th-early 5th century
This fragment’s size and double band design suggests that it originally ornamented the sleeve cuff of a tunic. The bands are figured as inhabited grape vine scrolls; each roundel of the vine scrolls holds a pair of running animals, including rabbits, goats, gazelles, and felines. The rightmost pairs face opposite to the rest, interrupting the flow of movement from left to right and introducing a chaotic energy to the composition. Red yarn details emphasize the animals’ panting tongues. The bands are tapestry woven, however the fabric between, above, and below the bands is plain/tabby woven. Supplementary weft wrapping in a light colored thread creates details on the roundels, animals, and grape leaves.
sight: 19.7 × 30.2 cm (7 3/4 × 11 7/8 in.)
From the collection of Lilian and Benjamin Hertzberg.
Linen and wool, tapestry woven
5th-6th centuryByzantineCompound-weave silk with patterning in supplementary wefts; selected motifs embroidered with gold and polychrome silk threads
19th centuryJapaneseFiber
Book of swatches mounted on paper (56 sheets)
19th-20th centuryJapaneseResist-dyed red damask silk utilizing stitch-resist (nuishime shibori) and tie-dying (kanoko shibori) techniques; selected motifs embroidered with gold-paper-wrapped and polychrome silk threads
18th centuryJapaneseSilk
19th centuryChineseSilk embroidery on silk twill damask mounted on paper
16th-17th centuryKorean