Late 4th-early 5th century
This fragment’s size and double band design suggests that it originally ornamented the sleeve cuff of a tunic. The bands are figured as inhabited grape vine scrolls; each roundel of the vine scrolls holds a pair of running animals, including rabbits, goats, gazelles, and felines. The rightmost pairs face opposite to the rest, interrupting the flow of movement from left to right and introducing a chaotic energy to the composition. Red yarn details emphasize the animals’ panting tongues. The bands are tapestry woven, however the fabric between, above, and below the bands is plain/tabby woven. Supplementary weft wrapping in a light colored thread creates details on the roundels, animals, and grape leaves.
sight: 19.7 × 30.2 cm (7 3/4 × 11 7/8 in.)
From the collection of Lilian and Benjamin Hertzberg.
Blue and buff wool with linen threads on wool warps
3rd-5th century CEByzantineWool and linen, tapestry weave
6th centuryByzantinesheer muslin (cambric)
19th centuryAmericanGilt bronze
10th-11th centuryChineseCotton and wax-covered cotton, twill weave
20th centuryGermanSilk ikat in plain weave
19th-20th centuryUzbekPolychromed silk and metallic yarns (silver lamé and gilt frisé)
16th-17th centuryEuropeanSatin damask with velvet
19th-20th centuryEuropean?Chain stitch embroidery of silk thread on unbleached cotton.
17th-18th centuryIndianEmbossed, gilt or silvered paper with mother of pearl
19th centuryFrenchsilk (cut and uncut velvet)
17th-18th centuryItalian