15th century
Featured in the ogival lattice design of are confronted creatures from Hindu mythology: in one row, yellow yalis, and in the alternating row, blue makaras. Yali possesses the head and body of a lion and wings. Makara is a sea animal that often appears with an elephant head and a crocodile body. Both yalis and makaras are believed to be guardian creatures and are typically found as stone carvings in Hindu temples—at the entrance, on the exterior walls or pillars. Their protective power would have been fitting for textiles of this kind which are believed to be used for decorating imperial tents and canopies. Produced in the Islamic Sultanate period of India, this lampas is a cultural hybrid that combines motifs from Hindu temple architecture and the ogival lattice pattern that was popular in Central Asia, Iran, Egypt, and Ottoman Turkey.
64.1 cm x 73.5 cm (backing: 75 cm x 84.1 cm)
Michael Frances.
Fiber
SpanishDark blue satin ground with embroidered decoration
18th centuryChineseSilk and gold
18th centuryJapaneseBook of swatches mounted on paper (56 sheets)
19th-20th centuryJapaneseCotton and wax-covered cotton in yellow and black, twill weave
20th centuryGermanCut, voided silk velvet with brocaded metallic thread
16th centuryOttomanColored silk on white ground
18th centuryFrenchSilk
19th centuryUzbekBrocaded satin (?) with corduroy
19th-20th centuryEuropean?