7th-9th century
Light colored plant motifs stand out against a purple background. The plants are symmetrical, 'candelabra' style motifs. This textile is a weft-faced compound weave (samite). Red main warps are visible in areas of damage. Trimmings from the fabric have been positioned along the upper and rightmost edges of this square fragment.
Warps: undyed white cotton, 2 Z spun S plied. 34 warps per decimeter. Wefts: wool, Z spun; varied pairs and singles per shot. Extremely eccentric wefts, supplementary wefts for broceaded ornaments. Weft color: blue (heavily abrashed), red (heavily abrashed), green (probably indigo sulfonic, heavily abrashed), yellow, undyed white, light purply brown, corrosive brown, genuine purple/aubergine. Both selvedges: return wefting. Top and bottom: between 8 and 11 warps in a knotted fringe.
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