Fragment of Brocaded Double Compound Fancy Weave Fabric

Book of swatches mounted on paper (56 sheets)

Fiber

Silk?

Wool

wool pile on a foundation of cotton warps and wefts

Purple and buff wool on linen, tapestry woven

Warp: tightly wound 2 ply undyed white wool. Structural weft: 1 ply Z spun. Decorative (soumak) weft: all 2 Z spun S ply. Colors: yellow, red, blue, dark blue, green, white, undyed brown, aubergine, orange. Countered soumak: light and dark red, aubergine, orange, yellow, light and dark blue. Mildly corrosive brown. 78 rows soumak per vertical decimeter. 72 decorative warps per horizontal decimeter. Both selvedges: 1 bundle of 3 warps wrapped in red brocading. Top end: 3.5 cm. slit tapestry kilim with 1 cm. brocade wefts, doubled (to 4 ply). Bottom end: cut. Which is top and which is bottom is unclear.

Wool and linen, tapestry weave

Silk and metallic thread lampas on satin foundation