Textile ArtsByzantine5th century

Fragments from a Tunic Front

5th century

Description

Several tapestry-woven fragments have been mounted on a linen backing in the shape of a tunic front. The largest, uppermost fragment consists of an arcade with four dark purple figures from a Dionysiac group standing under the arches. The leftmost figure is nude with a cap and holds a yellow staff topped with a green detail; this figure is likely Dionysus with his thyrsus staff. This green and yellow thyrsus is the only bit of color in an otherwise monochrome textile and serves to distinguish this first figure from the rest. On the right side of the staff are four purple dots. The same dots also appear under the raised arm of the final figure in the procession. The other three figures below the arcade take the traditional pose common to representations of dancers, with one arm raised and bent at the elbow. After the figure of Dionysus, going from left to right, we find a woman with a long, transparent peplos with one breast bared. This woman twists her body to look over her right shoulder. Next is a man either nude or wearing a loin cloth with some kind of implements at his waist, perhaps a shepherd’s crook. The last figure is a nude female striding to the right. Above her right hand and below her left are some purple shapes, perhaps instruments like castanets. All four figures glance to the right. Many details of these figures are articulated in an undyed supplementary weft in the ‘flying shuttle’ technique. Details of the arcade and animals are also created via flying shuttle. Surrounding the arcade on three sides is a border pattern of dark crow-stepped diamonds outlined in undyed wefts. This border transitions to the pattern of the clavi bands at about the figures’ waist height. Two large rabbits at the start of the clavi pattern also belong to this large fragment. A reinforced selvedge at the top edge of this fragment marks the neckline of the tunic. Rabbits, lions, and grape leaf motifs repeat down the sides. At bottom are a pair of segments with vertical stripes.

Classification

Textile Arts

Technique

Woven, tapestry weave

Medium

Wool and linen, tapestry weave

Culture

Byzantine

Period

Byzantine period, Early

Century

5th century