Textile ArtsJapanese18th century

Long-sleeved Wedding Overrobe (Uchikake) with Decoration of Cranes and Snow-Covered Pines

first half 19th century

Description

A white damask silk was dyed to a bright orange-red color to create the ground for this luxurious long-sleeved outer wedding robe with designs of cranes and pines. The white tufts of snow-laden pine branches that cover the body and right sleeve of the robe in a diagonal direction (both front and back) were created using the "nuishime shibori" stitch-resist dyeing technique, in which selected areas of fabric were stitched and pulled together before dyeing process, thus preserving those stitched-off areas reserved in white, predetermined shapes. The pine trunks and numerous crane's bodies were created utilizing the "kanoko shibori" tie-dye technique whereby multiple tiny areas of fabric were tied off before dyeing in order to preserve small circular areas of white fabric reserved, the tiny white spots combining to create forms and shapes when viewed from afar. Other elements, such as individual pine needles and cranes were embroidered using green, black, orange, yellow, and gold-paper-wrapped threads. The lower hem is padded.

Classification

Textile Arts

Technique

Embroidery

Medium

Resist-dyed red damask silk utilizing stitch-resist (nuishime shibori) and tie-dying (kanoko shibori) techniques; selected motifs embroidered with gold-paper-wrapped and polychrome silk threads

Culture

Japanese

Period

Edo period, 1615-1868

Century

18th century

Division

Asian and Mediterranean Art

Department

Department of Asian Art

Dimensions

max. H. 165.1 x W. 119.4 cm (65 x 47 in.)

Provenance

[Nomura Shojiro, Kyoto, by 1935], sold; to (Louis V. Ledoux Collection, New York (1935-1948), by descent; to his son L. Pierre Ledoux, New York (1948-2001), by inheritance; to his widow Joan F. Ledoux, New York, (2001-2013), gift; to Harvard Art Museums, 2013. Footnotes: 1. Louis V. Ledoux (1880-1948) 2. L. Pierre Ledoux (1912-2001) 3. On long term loan to Harvard Art Museums from 1985 to 2013.

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Warps: 3 Z spun S plied undyed white wool, some slightly darker; alternate warps slightly depressed. Weft: 1 ply Z spun undyed buff, or dyed red (Qashqai); 2 or 3 yarns per shoot. Pile: 2 S plied Z spun wool. Pile colors: dark indigo blue, blue green, medium blue, yellow, yellow green, white, dark brown/black. Knots: asymmetrical, open to the left. Knots per vertical decimeter: 49. Knots per horizontal decimeter: 48. Both selvedges: rewrapped. Top end: approz 1 cm. blue and white double cloth float weaved followed by double line countered soumak in red and white. Bottom end: stripped.

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