19th century
A long bolt of cloth worn wrapped around the hips, this garment, known as a “pha nung,” is made of royal blue silk with decorative patterns woven in supplementary wefts of dark red silk and gold threads. A large, rectangular decorative field of rerepeated patterns of stylized flowers and leaves appears at the center of the wrapper; borders of styled flowers and geometric designs frame the central field. The ends of the cloth sport repeated bands of stylized leaves in triangular formations. An especially luxurious textile, this “pha nung” was likely made for a wealthy client.
237.5 x 99.1 cm (93 1/2 x 39 in.)
Private Collection, Phnom Penh, (by 1921), sold; to Louis V. Ledoux Collection, New York (1921-1948), by descent; to his son L. Pierre Ledoux, New York (1948-2001), by inheritance; to his widow Joan F. Ledoux, New York, (2001-2013), gift; to Harvard Art Museums, 2013. Footnotes: 1. Louis V. Ledoux (1880-1948) 2. L. Pierre Ledoux (1912-2001) 3. On long term loan to Harvard Art Museums from 1985 to 2013.
Silk, woven with complementary wefts, inner warps, and binding warps in plain weave (taqueté)
18th centurySilk in 'kesi' tapestry weave, selected elements woven in metallic silver thread
19th centuryChineseWool warps and wefts
CaucasianSilk lampas
17th centurySpanishWool and linen
7th-8th centuryByzantineLinen and wool
4th-6th centuryByzantineCotton, plain weave plaid in black, white, and red
20th centuryAmerican