Buddhist Priest's Robe (Kesa)

Book of swatches mounted on paper (56 sheets)

compound silk weave

wool; twill tapestry weave, double-interlocked

Braided and knotted green silk cord with fringed tassels

Warp: tightly wound 2 ply undyed white wool. Structural weft: 1 ply Z spun. Decorative (soumak) weft: all 2 Z spun S ply. Colors: yellow, red, blue, dark blue, green, white, undyed brown, aubergine, orange. Countered soumak: light and dark red, aubergine, orange, yellow, light and dark blue. Mildly corrosive brown. 78 rows soumak per vertical decimeter. 72 decorative warps per horizontal decimeter. Both selvedges: 1 bundle of 3 warps wrapped in red brocading. Top end: 3.5 cm. slit tapestry kilim with 1 cm. brocade wefts, doubled (to 4 ply). Bottom end: cut. Which is top and which is bottom is unclear.

Ink on silk

'Kesi' thangka mounted as a hanging scroll; silk in tapestry weave with some details painted on the surface in gold and light colors

Warps: undyed white wool. Wefts: variable, including outlining wefts, eccentric wefts. Weft colors: light red, dark red, red-brown, purple (made of red and blue), light blue (abrashed), green, dark olive green, dark blue. Whites are wool and cotton combined. The rest are wool.

Fiber

Silk and metallic (silver and gilt) yarns filé

Ink on silk