mid 18th-early 19th century
The careful composition of this coat belies that it is constructed from a number of different fabrics. The main textile is a blue silk satin ground weave featuring delicate flowers in rows of alternating direction. The primary border features another complex weave, patterned with other colorful flowers and white birds. Smaller bands composed of black cotton, printed cotton known as qalamkari, and salmon-colored silk round out this magnificent coat. Paintings from the late Safavid to Qajar periods show women in courtly settings wearing such delicate, outer-garments. This coat could have been worn in such a context and would certainly have been layered over other richly patterned dress textiles.
88 x 165.5 cm (34 5/8 x 65 3/16 in.)
Fiber
FrenchInk on silk
20th centuryAustrianwool, twill tapestry weave, double-interlocked (main field); embroidered; supplementary discountinuous wefts in the minor borders
19th centuryIndianSilk with vegetable dyes, warp and weft ikat designs; collar lining made of red crepe, robe lining made of red wool
18th-19th centuryJapaneseWool, tapestry woven
3rd-6th centuryByzantineSilk
GreekTextile fibers
20th centuryCroatianSilk
Chinese