mid 18th-early 19th century
The careful composition of this coat belies that it is constructed from a number of different fabrics. The main textile is a blue silk satin ground weave featuring delicate flowers in rows of alternating direction. The primary border features another complex weave, patterned with other colorful flowers and white birds. Smaller bands composed of black cotton, printed cotton known as qalamkari, and salmon-colored silk round out this magnificent coat. Paintings from the late Safavid to Qajar periods show women in courtly settings wearing such delicate, outer-garments. This coat could have been worn in such a context and would certainly have been layered over other richly patterned dress textiles.
88 x 165.5 cm (34 5/8 x 65 3/16 in.)
Silk?
French
Red and blue silk gauze
20th centuryKoreanWool and linen, tapestry weave
EgyptianSilk
Japanese
Handwoven maguey fiber
20th centuryAmericanYellow silk twill ground with embroidered decoration
19th centuryChineseSilk
ChineseBrown and Indigo dye on cotton textile fibers
19th-20th centuryIndian