mid 18th-early 19th century
The careful composition of this coat belies that it is constructed from a number of different fabrics. The main textile is a blue silk satin ground weave featuring delicate flowers in rows of alternating direction. The primary border features another complex weave, patterned with other colorful flowers and white birds. Smaller bands composed of black cotton, printed cotton known as qalamkari, and salmon-colored silk round out this magnificent coat. Paintings from the late Safavid to Qajar periods show women in courtly settings wearing such delicate, outer-garments. This coat could have been worn in such a context and would certainly have been layered over other richly patterned dress textiles.
88 x 165.5 cm (34 5/8 x 65 3/16 in.)
Silk
ChineseYellow silk with selvedges intact; the basic fabric in tabby weave, the decorative medallions in damask weave
19th centuryChineseBook of swatches mounted on paper (56 sheets)
19th-20th centuryJapaneseInk on silk
20th centuryAustrianSatin-stitch embroidery using multicolored silk flosses on a black silk satin ground
19th centuryKoreanRed, green, and black inks printed on cotton t-shirt
21st centuryBelgianTextile fibers
20th centuryGerman